| I thought I had experienced a safari at Kruger. You get into a Land Rover, you drive around, you stop and take pictures. 12 hours later, you leave, feeling the triumph (or defeat) of having conquered (or not) THE BIG FIVE. It is sad if this is how most safaris are measured. So, I was looking forward the down time at our team debrief (there was a rumour about a swimming pool circulating) more than anything else, and the safaris would be optional. Often, the best surprises come when your heart is already set on something. This is a tribute to a good man. He is good because he believes in goodness. His bush experience came from having grown up the son of a hunter. Yet, somewhere along his journey, his view of the world turned from conquest to conservation. Now, he is one of only a handful of people in the country qualified to qualify guides. He could very well be called a Super Guide, but his humility would have nothing of it. Instead, he serves us bipeds with as much care and attention as he services all other wildlife. Now give this man a Land Rover and the open bush, and you have the formula for an unforgettable 3 days. Yes, we did see the animals, thanks in part to the amazing eyes of his tracker Daniel. But what was amazing was what we would not have seen if it wasn’t for Neil. I learned more in the first 20 minutes with him than on the entire day long drive in Kruger. Holding some round pellets in his hand, he points to the widely scattered pattern and asks us “Could you guess what animal left these pellets: an impala (a type of common deer) or a giraffe?” We’re dumbfounded. “Look at the pattern that is formed when these pellets fall from a high distance.” We watch in wonder as the pellets he drops from above his head form the exact patterns we see on the ground. For the next 3 days, Neil draws upon his expertise in biology, zoology, entomology, geology, astronomy and survivor skills to inspire us to look at the surroundings as more than just annoying foliage that might be masking some over-sought, over photographed animals. Instead we learned about termite mounds and the amazing engineering skills of this community that has taught humans about heat convection in buildings, trees whose branches and leaves can be used as toothbrush, toothpaste, rope, toilet paper and a long lasting torch. He showed us how to make a fish hook with a Knobthorn branch; a peculiar plant affectionately known as the Mother-In-Law’s Tongue (because it is wide, sharp and bitter!). He showed us how to determine north with a long stem of grass and a watch or how to locate the celestial south pole by extrapolating from the Southern Cross constellation. Probably the most memorable moment was when he proceeded to demonstrate a game that he used to play when younger. He grabbed a handful of giraffe pellets and put them in his mouth! He was quite the pellet spitter! He was also the only guide that did not carry a rifle on the drives. He would rather use his wits and knowledge as the best tools to avoid having such a close confrontation with the wildlife. He’s the MacGyver of the bush. And each time we passed another Land Rover, I couldn’t help but look into the eyes of the other passengers. The look of disappointment or boredom was often the reflection looking back. I smiled, trying not too hard to hide the knowledge that I was having the time of my life!
Neil, our guide at Ingwe.
Zebra Crossing. |
